Mystery Quilt Pattern: 2012 New Year's Day Mystery Quilt

By Janet Wickell

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Get Ready to Sew the 2012 New Year's Day Mystery Quilt Pattern

My mystery quilt fabrics -- colors aren't really true in this shot, but show my choices. They are NOT in numerical order. Photo Credit: © Janet Wickell

Our New Year's Day mystery quilt patterns have become somewhat of a tradition on About.com Quilting. Each year, I design a quilt, and publish fabric and cutting advice before January 1, so that you're ready to sew. But you won't see the final design until near the end of New Year's Day (unless you guess it as we work, but I try not to let that happen.

First, let's talk about fabric suggestions. Start looking through your stash, or maybe purchase fabric especially for the quilt.

I'm not showing my choices yet, because it's more fun to let your own tastes be the guide.. As always, the mystery quilt pattern is written so that quilts can be very scrappy. However, if you do go scrappy, there are some areas that should be very similar in color value -- which basically means contrast.

Finished Quilt Size: 64" x 64" without the optional border; somewhat larger with the border

Yardages are somewhat generous; remember that the terms 'light' and 'dark' will be different for everyone -- you set the starting points for those values.

1-1/4 yards of very dark neutral fabric, even black, prints are excellent as long as they are subtle or small in scale
Cut (32) 2-1/2" x 12-1/2" bars (if you cut 2-1/2" wide selvage-to-selvage strips, you'll have some waste; instead, if you are using one large yardage, cut away a panel that's about 39" wide and 30 inches long from a large piece of fabric and then cut 2-1/2" wide strips across the grain; you should be able to cut three 2-1/2" x 12-1/2" bars from each strip.

1-1/2 yards of a light neutral fabric, can also be a small scale or subtle print and could even be the reverse of fabric #1
Cut (32) 2-1/2" x 16-1/2" bars (if you are using a large panel of fabric, conserve by doing the same as directed above, making the panel about 35" wide and 30" long; you should be able to cut two 2-1/2" x 16-1/2" bars from each 2-1/2" wide cut across the fabric's crosswise grain.
It's best if the above two fabrics are not chosen from a scrappy batch; if they are, values for each one should be very similar. Directional fabrics will work for fabrics 1 and 2, but are not the best choice for other fabrics (other than border and binding).
1-5/8 yards of a fabric lighter than fabric #1, but darker than fabric #2; my choice is a warmish neutral
Cut (48) 4-7/8" x 4-7/8" squares (make them a bit larger and then trim back after assembly if you're into complete accuracy, more about that later, but the process does take more time)
1-5/8 yards of a fabric darker than fabric #3 -- but it should look good alongside that fabric; my choice is a warm
Cut (48) 4-7/8" x 4-7/8" squares (ditto on the accuracy mentioned above, use the same size -- you might know where I'm going with this)
1 yard of a dark, hot fabric; mine is a red print; can be cut from scrappy selection (values should be similar, but needn't be exact)
Cut (24) 4-7/8" x 4-7/8" squares (ditto again re: accuracy & size)
1 yard of a fairly dark cool or neutral fabric, not as dark as fabric #1; go scrappy if you like (using similar values)
Cut (24) 4-7/8" x 4-7/8" squares (ditto again re: accuracy & size)
76 miscellaneous scraps, each measuring 4-1/2" x 4-1/2"; you can use leftovers of (some) of the fabrics above and/or pull from your stash; not too light, mediums to darks are best (use a combination of warms, neutrals and cools)
OR - #7 OPTION to go a bit fussy: (16) 5-1/4" x 5-1/4" squares (all alike or different, but can be same general value) -- they should contrast with Fabrics 1 and 2; (64) 2-7/8" x 2-7/8" squares that contrast with the larger squares AND Fabrics 1 and 2 (similar values for these small squares, but don't obsess - contrast between the two is more important).
You can also put #7 on hold for a bit, because you might decide you like one option better than the other as we progress.

Color Designations
Warm... cool... neutral... Facts About Color Dominance

Join the Official Mystery Quilt Discussion in the Quilting Forum

Batting, backing and binding for the quilt all depend on the size you choose, so hold off on those materials.

Types of Fabrics

Prints are always good, but make sure some are fairly subtle (like tone-on-tones).
You can use florals for this quilt, but choose fabrics with prints that blend together to create a dominant color, and watch the color values. Small to medium scale florals will work best, you can throw in a few that are larger scale (but not huge) in the 76 scraps. I could see this as a watercolor quilt.
If solids are your favorite types of fabric, go for it. I only own a handful of solid fabrics, so sometimes neglect to mention them.
Batiks would be lovely, too.
Civil War, 1920s, 1930s -- fabrics from other periods are absolutely fine as long as there's contrast among your choices.

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A Few Words About the 2012 Mystery Quilt

This year's quilt might seem a bit obvious after you start sewing, but hold on, because the end results are not that simple. The 2012 mystery quilt pattern is all about design, your design.

One of the most interesting things for me, as a quilter and a pattern writer, is seeing how differently everyone interprets a pattern. A look back at some of the mystery quilts from previous years (see page one of the pattern for links) offers a perfect example of that, but I see it nearly every day when quilters send me pictures of quilts made from my instructions.

Each quilter's unique take on a quilt is a wonderful learning opportunity for us all, and our own choices help us refine our skills, too, maybe most when we do something that we tag as 'wrong.' But remember, there are no wrongs, just variations.

A few things to consider when you evaluate a project:

How did the colors work together?
How about print scale – are there a variety of print sizes? And did you add interest by combining print types (geometrics, florals, stripes, novelties, more)?
Were some prints very large? Did they overwhelm smaller patches, lose their overall appearance, or did they add to the visual texture of the quilt?
Were tone-on-tone fabrics helpful for adding color and a subtle print?
If you wanted lots of contrast between patches, did you achieve it by using a variety of color values? Would you change their placement in a future quilt?
Which design elements did you like best?

I nearly always see changes that I'd make if I assembled a pattern again, and sometimes I really do stitch another, but because I write about it, there's usually no time for that -- I have to move on to the next project.

The annual mystery quilt has become an interactive event – quilters from around the globe 'meet' in the Forum to share ideas before New Year's Day, and then give progress reports as they begin to sew. Interactivity is an essential ingredient for this year's quilt. As we work, I'll ask you to send me photos or post them in the Forum – you'll understand why on January 1.

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Start Sewing the 2012 New Year's Day Mystery Quilt

If you think it will help you keep track, pin a fabric number onto a small scrap of fabrics 1 through 6. Don't worry yet about the number 7 fabrics. Numbering doesn't make sense if you're sewing a scrap quilt -- just stack each type into piles.

You've possibly guessed that all of those 4-7/8" squares will be used to make half square triangle units (HST units). We'll quick piece them using the easy sandwich method.

If you suspected this was coming, and put off cutting because you have a favorite construction method for HST units, go for it. The completed units should measure 4-1/2" x 4-1/2" after assembly (in other words finish at 4" x 4").

Draw a line from one corner to the opposite corner on the reverse side of each lighter square (#3 and #4).
Pair the 4-7/8" squares with their partners:
- Pair (24) #3 squares with (24) #6 squares
- Pair (24) #4 squares with (24) #5 squares
- Pair (24) #3 squares with (24) #4 squares
Use the sandwich method to turn each pair of squares into two HST units. Chain piece to speed up sewing.
When complete, each unit should measure 4-1/2" x 4-1/2".

Have you finished the HSTs units? If not, make a decision about moving on to page 4. If construction is slow, you could complete a small batch of each type, and then move on. Step 4 involves design, along with some time to think about blocks, and you could do that while you sew the remaining HST units.

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Start Playing with Your Half Square Triangle Units

I mentioned before that this year's mystery quilt pattern is somewhat different than past quilts. I'll show you the 'planned' block before I ask you to sew anything, but first, I'd like you to take some time to play around with components yourself, creating a design with the nine units designated for each block.

Do use the specific units (below) to design a quilt block, unless you're okay with making more HST units (or other components) before you begin assembling the quilt.

Rig a design wall before we start. Flannel tacked to a wall works fine. A vertical surface of some sort is best, because it allows you to view your work from a distance. You can also pin directly into a wall or into cardboard -- some quilters use slabs of styrofoam. If a vertical surface isn't doable, just use a table.

Play With Your HST Units

Gather nine HST units: 3 of each type (#3/#6, #4/#5, #3/#4).
Using the design wall, create a block. I know some of you will try to figure out which block -- or blocks -- are planned, but put that thought on ignore for now.
Play around with the components. How do they flow? Would fabrics and colors create 'movement' when blocks are repeated in a quilt? Don't sew anything yet.
You can use straight pins to 'sew' patches together into a 'block' that's easy to pick up and move around or tack to a surface with just a couple of pins along the top.
Grab nine more of the same units and design another block. Keep designing if you like. Which blocks do you like best? Are there a couple of block variations that would work well together?

Take a break for a bit -- leave the room to reduce fabric and design overload.
Evaluate the block(s) when you return. Did one stand out from the others when you entered the room? How would it look sewn side-by-side to other blocks (we may not do that, but how would it look)?

Send me photos, please:

I'd love it if you would send me photos of your designs, to help others see as many potential layouts as possible, and not just mine. Send to: quilting@aboutguide.com. I'll link to photos from this page, but designs will remain invisible until you're ready to click on the links.

Don't sew your blocks together. If you need more time to finish HST units, go ahead and do that now, and then come back to your blocks for the next step.

Are you ready to see some of the blocks other quilters have designed? Here's a collage of mystery quilt blocks -- mocked up but not sewn (a few are multiple blocks arranged into a layout).

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Assemble the Mystery Quilt Blocks

2012 Mystery Quilt Block - © Janet Wickell

Assemble 16 mystery quilt blocks as shown unless you have decided to go with a block of your own design.

Gather the nine HST units (3 of each type) referred to on the previous page.
Sew the units into three rows, with three units in each row as shown. Your colors and values won't be just like mine, but you should be able to see how they flow.
Press seam allowances in adjoining rows in opposite directions.

Join the rows, matching intersections. Press the quilt block. It should measure 12-1/2" x 12-1/2".Repeat to make 16 quilt blocks.

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Finish the 2012 Mystery Quilt

2012 Mystery Quilt Pattern - © Janet Wickell

Sew a dark #1 bar (2-1/2" x 12-1/2") to opposite sides of each quilt block. In the example, the dark bars are alongside the length of HST units with warm background, on the other side, along the light neutral side of HST units. As long as your are consistent, it doesn't really matter which sides you sew the bars to.
Press seam allowances towards the bars.
Sew a light #2 bar (2-1/2" x 16-1/2") to the remaining sides of each quilt block. Press seam allowances towards the bars.

#7, Option #2

If you cut pieces for option #2, use the no waste flying geese method (and the patches specified on page 1) to create a flying geese border for the quilt. You should need 16 geese for each of the two opposite sides you add first, and 17 each for the two remaining sides.