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Learn the Needleturn Applique Method

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Dealing with Curves and Points

Working with Curves

Concave curves: In general, it's often easier to turn under a concave curve (a curve that moves inward, like a bite out of a cookie) if you make perpendicular cuts towards the fold like.

Convex curves: Convex curves bend outwards, like a rounded hill. There's usually no need to make clips into a convex curve.

Working with Points

Outward points, like star tips: Sharp points can become bulky from multiple layers of fabric created when raw edges are turned under for sewing.

  • Minimize bulk by (temporarily) ending your seam a couple of stitches before you reach the end of the pointed tip, and trimming away a portion of the remaining seam allowance along that side.

  • Now cut off a portion of the seam allowance above the point itself (straight across) and fold what's left straight down, perpendicular to the point.

  • Fold under the upper sections of the next side of the point and continue sewing. Use the tip of your needle (or a toothpick) to coax fabric into place if necessary.

Inside points, the reverse of a pointed tip: Clip straight in to inside points, almost to the seam allowance. Stop sewing a few stitches before you reach each inside point and turn under the seam allowance on both sides of it. Continue sewing, taking a few extra "security" stitches into the pointed area where the seam allowance was clipped.

The Truth About Curves and Points

The truth is, you have to practice working with curves and points to "get" the technique. Cut some motifs and backgrounds from leftover fabrics and experiment until you're comfortable with folding and sewing.
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